Or is there any other component that could be causing that low voltage? First and foremost thanks for such a really good site IvIark. It's a little thrown together, but space is tight on this layout.Hope that helps. All taken from this site. I have learned so much in the last month and your and other's willingness to help out makes it that much better. Hi,I made mine with bass pot and it sounds amazing ! freestompboxes.org forum post with all the details of the origin for this Klon Centaur type clone.. which one is the buffer IC? Yes no problem. i'm also running two OPA2134's instead of the TL072's. But everything works great and I've got a nice ODAnyone know what I did wrong?Ps: sorry for my English :). I wanted to hate it but it's the best overdrive I've heard yetI think if I build one I'd like it to be pretty exact to the original. and would the other one be part of the clipping circuit? Sounds similar to RyanNo3's problem but he obviously sorted it. So to fasten the jack, instead of turning the hex washer, I had to spin the jack itself, and solder afterwards (or before, whichever you find easier).But it will fit. You could use a heatsink (a little alligator clip clamped between the diode and the end you're soldering should work). Altering that resistor will also reduce the input impedance and so it may not be quite as bright. Well if it is happening both in bypass and when the effect is on you need to check hardware and components that are common to both states.First thing is the input, output sockets and switch. But the schematic has these values crossed out in red and swapped. I bought the kit you suggested from Bitsbox but I've got a couple of 1N34A instead of OA91 - 1N277.........http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/pm7300/05-1_zpscc21d316.jpg, Yes the 1N34A is just about the only germanium diode that you can still buy in quantity for reasonable prices. madbean's sunking schematic only shows 2 1uf film caps and 1* 1uf tantalum! Now it does the same thing that Tito explained in the comments above. 4.546. IC voltages are all good. THIS isn't the famous "whine," is it? Edit: I have tried out a KTR before, so that is my comparison measure for the amount of gain. Just built 2 of these. 0.74. here it is anways! The pedals were made manually by Finnegan. 4.246. Thanks for that ^^Anyway i notice that the more gain I give with the gain pot the more noise the effect generates. One "strange" issue with this effect once again. Sorry, I've just read the 1st post and I've got my answer..... Just Built this pedal and it worked first go. Not just a usual high gain effect buzz, but an oscillating ticking noise along with lots of noise. maybe the tone caps are off a bit? Experiment and see what you think are best. Thanks. 4.558. IC11. Or does anyone know of a different online store where I could buy everything for this build? Even when turned off with the fabulous buffer. Where does the input wire go if you were just using a DPDT stompswitch only? 4.563. Thanks a lot anyway already. Over at freestompboxes Greg took apart his Lovepedal Dragon Fuzz (Also known as the BBB 07, Balance, Black Beauty and so on.) But one could easily 'mod' the board at the initial cut and link stage if required. Thanks. I still can´t get what is causing that. Klon Centaur - Bare Bones; Negative Voltage Inverter; Blackout Effectors Fix'd Fuzz Deluxe; Rockett Blue Note OD; Mid-Fi Electronics Clari(not) January (13) 2015 (255) December (12) November (15) October (22) September (21) August (21) July (22) Worked first pop and sound lushous. one by one to see if it changes. The most tonally significant difference between the first and last versions of the Centaur is a resistor labeled R15B that Bill added ” to give the circuit a very small amount of additional low-mid response”. Diy Guitar Amp Diy Guitar Pedal Guitar Pedals Electronics Basics Pedalboard Centaur Music Guitar Circuits Layouts. I bought both the soul food with the JHS mod and the KTR, and I like both. I will try not to delete this one for being a stupid dummy.The gain turned all the way down I get no output. What should the IC´s read in voltage? It's more the fact that I've seen it at over 3V and so it's funny how sometimes it seems to drop the voltage further. I'm satisfied! The Tube Screamer is the Musikding "Der Screamer" with some mods. 4.272. I've built it with 4558, is just that I had right here a bag with 80 pieces and didn't want to chase the TL072's, but i'm going to take a look and see what happens. All great. Will using OA91's be better? Anyone have any idea what the problem might be? Email me on guitarfx@hotmail.co.uk and I'll have a look. Klon centaur muto con beep continuo 0 Utenti e 1 Visitatore stanno visualizzando questo topic. Well something seems to be wrong with IC3, you should be getting about -9V at pin 5 not 7.79V, which then links to pin 4 of IC2 and so should also be at around -9V. A little more bespoke as a pedal, the Archer, matches … Klon Centaur. Seems to work in bypass, with some whine. Does anyone have a verified build out of this? Powered by, Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. About 3/4 through the turn, the treble is more or less unity with the clean signal. 8 June, 2013 at 11:30 Hi mika. If you're not getting 18V there then something must be wrong with the charge pump, diodes D4 or D5, or possibly the 1u cap from IC3 pin 2 to the D4/D5 junction. For the true bypass version just use the diagram on the Offboard page linked in the menu for the usual LED wiring. Thanks for your help. Once swapped back it sounds identical to my Aion Refractor Klone.R23 is a little difficult to locate: It's the 4.7k resistor to the left of the 12k resistor down on the left side of the board (to the right of the 27k one). Good to know. I'd check over all your soldering including pots and reflow any that look suspect. You could probably have got one from Bitsbox as they supply the kit with it included, so they must have some even though they do not have them in there list of resistors, but too late to tell you that now you have have bought 100 of them.http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=280_281&products_id=2038. Clean on minimum but no drive tone just hiss at full gain. Building A Klone Of The Klon Centaur. I wanted one with board mounted pots and for a smaller enclosure. I'll do a demo of the clone & original side by side. But I see the pin next to it is also at +0.5V, are you sure the cut between is complete? I've had similar problems to the ones mentioned above, seemed to work ok volume and treble wise but the gain play up, had no real grunt and seemed to work backwards, I spent ages replacing IC's and fretting. It still allows sound through, just really low volume and distorted. Maybe that's what the Klon does? I know it probably would take away from the original "Klon" sound but I would like just a bit more bass.......... Any help greatly appreciated. What started out as mild curiosity has blown into full blown obsession. Thanks! im so determined to get this pedal to sound like the demo. also, I have used these as diodes: IC 1 and 2: 1N34a3: 1N47424 and 5: 1N4007 .. are these ok? the silver I built is a lot more bright and actually kicked the ktr off my board as it's a dead ringer for it. Seems to be 21x27 in the picture... Oops. From Tayda you can get MAX1044. The PCB: As the BOM and all the documents are available you can get the parts and DIY (you can also order NOS USSR Germanium Transistors). Subtle value changes but the difference is huge, especially with the volume up. Here are my voltages which I don't understand at all. Finished this moster on fridayhttp://mirosol.kapsi.fi/varasto/boxes/BN.jpgand sighed that my desk is finally empty from all made-to-order stuff.. It's supposed to go from the 9V supply to ground, but I realised I connected it to an 18V rail instead of 9V (IC2 pin 8). I had something c*cked up in the offboard wiring. Hey, Im building the 1st image above, with no bass or switch. I get bypass signal and the pedal works fine and sounds good. Just have to wait for my 250k dual pots to arrive.. after a couple of mods on mine for use with a bass, the Klon that I built from IvIark's layout is one of my favorite OD's. I’m particularly interested in what people think of Trombetta given current prices. The foot switch still didn't work either way so I'm going to swap it out in the morning, if I do it now I'll probably brick the thing as I'm going cross eyed from having looked at this thing for so long ;-) To be fair it sounds so good on I'm not sure if it needs a working 'off' switch, I just want to check out that famous buffer! Took me little over five hours from scratch to finish. Looking forward to ordering one … 1500$ en moyenne sur la baie pour les rares exemplaires de cette overdrive plus que mythique. It's working like a volume pot. Joel. But I'm losing my mind here! It's probably worth checking the voltages between all the IC pins and ground to see if something looks amiss.That should give you enough to start off with, but failing that I think it would probably be best to make an audio probe to tie down exactly where the problem is introduced which should make fault finding easier. Madbean has a pcb for different types of Klones, basically anyone can build a Klon and I've built a couple of them myself. I am only getting 10.8 volts on the negative side of D5. Look around for local pedalbuilders and they'll probably be glad to build you one. is this normal? a week of trouble shooting already. There was also some oscillation. Just found that I installed 560K resistors instead of 560R. Is anyone still answering problems on here, there's been no posts since August. Invading Cannibal Ladybirds - Fuzz/Distortion/Delay; Mad Professor - Deep Blue Delay; Mad Professor - Sky Blue Overdrive; Lovepedal - Superlead; Wampler - Plexi-Drive; Zvex - Box of Metal; Zvex - Box of Rock; Rockbox - Boiling Point; Playstation Flanger Design? I would like to build, one day, this versatile boost: Fulltone Fat Boost V1. Ive soldered the silicon ones back to back and straight to the switch and vero'd the OA91's and connected them to the switch. So basically feeding 18V to ICL7660s (or equivalent) of the 820 will result in burning the chip. If anybody wants to take a look:https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1053764/klon.jpghttps://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1053764/klon2.jpgAs after 20 hours of building these it could be something like a missing component somebody can spot in 5 seconds.Would the 100n cap next to pin3 be worth swapping? 4.273. This core design would be produced for 15 years, with minor tweaks and cosmetic changes – such as a move from gold to silver enclosures. But since the Soul Food is reasonably priced you might as well buy that one. I am going to check for loose connection later today I might also replace the IC3 and the 1u cap next to it. J Rockett “Archer” Overdrive and Boost Pedal. Looks like something is wrong with your charge pump. Ici je suis passé sur un petit boitier, gain de place oblige, et ça rentre (juste !) Pretty happy with how this is going so far. Then it sounds farty and the volume dips. What position was the gain pot in when you were testing the diodes? Saved from tagboardeffects.blogspot.nl Wampler Plexi-Drive Collection of vero (stripboard) & tagboard layouts for 100s of popular guitar effects, with over 500 verified designs. That may unfortunately mean swapping them out until you find the culprit. Klon Centaur (Bajaman/Soulsonic) DOD 440 Envelope Filter MXR Phase 90 DOD FET Preamp Dallas Arbiter Fuzz Face Soulsonic Hunny Bunny Overdrive BYOC Analog Delay Craig Anderton Headphone Amp Anderton Mini Amp Bajaman Real Tube Overdrive Fender Deluxe 5E3 with Tone Stack Mod. 4.255. what area of the vero layout should I look at to try to troubleshoot this? I am the owner and can verify these are the "s" models and work great in the Klon builds. I'm from Argentina.Thanks! Harald. Even without the diodes though you should get a change in gain as you turn the pot, because it increases the gain from the opamp so double check the connections to the Gain pot and around there. What is going on with the 1uF caps shown in your newest layouts? The kits from bitsbox use the layouts from tagboardeffects so they're a really good place to start. Not sure if I'm right, but shouldn't the polarity of the cap (bottom right corner) which I assume is the one Mark mentioned - negative should be at the bottom? I've A/B'd next to my 'complete' version and I can't tell them apart. Everything is bundled and happy now. Hello,I Think i'd need a little help...I just finished my build and it looks like i've got a buffer problem.Effect off, i've got a very weak sound. I can take the OA91s (D1 and D2) and the sound is just the same.I finished very late, so could not debug, the only thing I could see is that voltage dissapears on the Cap 1Uf at the end of the row of IC1 Pin 7, so no voltage on 1k resistor leading to D1 and D2.Something weird as all the rest works fine (buffered bypass, tone, volume, Gain works too, more as a volume than other thing, correct voltages...).This evening I'll try to check, any hint by the way? Update (28.02.2011): I finally got around to boxing the Centaur. A 750k and 1M in parallel will give you 428.5k or 2 x 820k in parallel will give you 410k. I thought I gave it … where are all these 1uf film caps coming from??? Hmmm, well positive to 7 is the correct orientation, are you sure the cap is ok? THe sockets are the 'header strips' you can get from TAYDA (part number A-1605) or from other suppliers / ebay. i'm not completely sure what you want to do, but. I accept that I've alomst certainly done something wrong but am hoping that somebody will be able to direct to right area of the board to concentrate my efforts on. Any suggestions to get more out of it? Mouser has the 7660S and I just used it for a klon build - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Intersil/ICL7660SCPA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtitjHzVIkrqV%252bHSB1sTPSiEqkubgSAyfE%3d55. The good news is the silk screen legend is back, along with double sided, plated thru-holes, and a regular green solder mask. all my resistors are correct value and in the right spots. Corrected. It's dead quiet and the volume and gain sound perfect, but I only get a slight treble boost when the treble knob is fully clockwise. This is around the time that I built my Klone as well, but I never made a post about it. Also, I was forced to move the DC Jack to the bottom corner. 4.543. Tight design to fit in a 125B Enclosure. Do I cut the led wire out of the layout and then connect the wire that says "input jack" to the bypass board or to the jack itself? Klon Centaur [Rev 2] [Updated 4th July 2014 - correction to treble control resistors] The older Klon layout was starting to annoy me for a few reasons so I decided to re-do it and start a new thread as this one is obviously currently unverified, and so all discussion here can relate to this layout. Although this pedal isn’t an official clone of the original Klon Centaur, the sound it produces, the level of control you’ll receive, and the effects built into the device are basically the same, which is unlike a treble booster pedal. Problem appears to be with or around IC3 because it seems to be heating up. I was wrong earlier, it's not cutting out completely. Personally I'd put a 100u in there (negative leg down) as I don't think 1u is any benefit at all. Guitarists adored this … Yes I did the layout showing the polarity direction a while ago based on my original V2 layout. Awesome Inc. theme. Soldered in it, and now it works like a dream! I'd just use what you have for now and order the correct values. Changed the diode as of the updated scheme, couldn't really hear any noticable diffrence so i thought that 18v might give it more headroom at highter volumes maybe.anyway, heres a demo i made of my build :)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kap6bO64Epk, actually it sounds insanely good, so happy with it! The PCB: As the BOM and all the documents are available you can get the parts and DIY (you can also order NOS USSR Germanium Transistors). The whole row connected to pin 2 has no audio. I have heard others mention this and it always seems something simple, but I can't seem to find anything. And each time I replaced any of them, it would sound normal for about 5-10 secs and fizzle out again. Maybe just a bad batch of chips?The only remaining issue I have is that the gain is very low. "I think that we have the answer to the mistery :P I'll put again the 1M resistor, even thought I have noticed no change on effect's tone.J. I've been trying a variety of caps in place of the 82n, but have yet to find one that makes a great difference. Muusikoiden.netin Tori. Will definitely try it out! 3.624. wouldnt using 1uf film caps be a waste of space and money? Check out the switch in the Rous layout I posted yesterday. The initial idea was to improve the TubeScreamer transient response and the midrange-bass frequencies in order to create a big open sound with a hint of tube clipping: the so-called transparent overdrive. I checked many times all the wiring and went through the whole board too and all was ok like I supposed as I spent a lot of time building this knowing that debugging would be a pain... Also tried swapping the upper and lower rows in the gain pot to see if its the pot itself thats broken, but it made no difference. Here are the ICs v'sTHIS IS with all pots turned all the way up. 3.918. This comment has been removed by the author. Anyone know what would cause pin 1 on ic2 to shoot up to around 16v? This post is long overdue, since I already posted about building the Klon Buffer in 2012. Here are a couple photos. Can someone please verify the switching here for me (first layout, not the modified)...I have mine wired up with a DPDT toggle switch for the Sw connections and a true bypass 3PDT. The pot lug numbering convention is shown here:http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/offboard-wiring.htmlBut the layout numbering is definitely right, so if it's working in reverse for you, you may have entered the Twilight Zone :o). !I put a switch dpdt on-off-on with si and ge diodesAnd try it with gain fully clockwise ; no differences!But for me it's sounds great ^_^, Hey IvIark,Is it possible to use the soft switch layout by Paul for this one?http://www.paulinthelab.com/2013/04/soft-latch-true-bypass-relay-switch-for.html. The Centaur is characterized as a "transparent" overdrive, meaning it adds gain to the signal without significantly altering the tone of the guitar.. About 8,000 units were built between 1994 and 2009. One thing though, you've made that from the old layout and I realised the the zener diode was misplaced. Buying the Germanium Fuzz Pedal online: You can use our online shop to get:. it sounds great for a few minutes when I turn it on and then it fades out and distorts. I'm not even sure a bass pot will be needed when the treble pot connection is corrected as per the above post. Bitsbox did the kit for this one a couple of years ago where as the later version is from the middle of this year and they have obviously had no requests to update the layout. 2011 (2) … Anyone Built The Centaur Vero Layout From Tagboardeffects Kloned Centaur Pcb Guitar Mania Electrosmash Klon Centaur Analysis Stratus Ibanez Ts 9 Tube Screamer Diy Project Pcb Aion Electronics With the pedal in buffered bypass, at various points of the layout I can find full volume and low volume. Klon Centaur (the meme episode) Electro Harmonix Op Amp Big Muff and another Lovepedal Purple Plexi 800; Digital Reverb (Accutronics BTDR-2H) Modified EA Tremolo (Runoffgroove) Lovepedal Woodrow (Electra Distortion) Danoboost (Modified EHX LPB-1) GuitarPCB.com D’LAY; Madbeanpedals Firebomb (ZVex Super Duper 2 in 1) & Gretsch Controfuzz; D*A*M* Meathead and a Germanium Fuzz Face; It … maybe a bad cap? I want to relocate it to the front of the board and use it as an "always on" drive, but the mud is killing me. The board will fit perfectly if the footswitch, and in/out jacks are as far down as you can make them. Thanks Mark & Miro. This is my 150th finished build to date.+m, Nice job squeezing it in there mate, and congrats on 150!
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